I love fried fish tacos. The crunchiness from the beer batter, the subtle whitefish inside, a crisp slaw on top, some kind of creamy binding keeping everything together in a fresh corn tortilla. Finding these delicacies, and especially finding one that knocks it out of the park is surprisingly difficult. A lot of fast-casual Mexican restaurants don’t serve fish tacos, or if they do, it’s a grilled version, which to be honest, is not my favorite.
My cravings brought me to Carroll Gardens, about a 25 minute walk from my Brooklyn apartment. On a crisp afternoon, I snagged a seat at Bar Bruno alongside a few other middle-aged men drinking a mix of margaritas on the rocks and white wine while they watched a soccer match. I sipped my ice water, dug into a book picked up at the library down the block, and waited for my order of three fish tacos to arrive.
These are as good as they get. The crispy beer batter keeps the fish flakey and light, a simple avocado salsa binding it together, pico adding a burst of freshness, and the bitterness of julienned radishes mellowing out the dollop of hot sauce I added in a failed attempt to impress the bartender.
If you find yourself in this part of Brooklyn, Bar Bruno is a must for a no-frills experience and truly fantastic food.
Bar Bruno • 520 Henry St • Brooklyn, NY